Pontcysyllte Aqueduct
The Story
In this episode of The Water Road we cross the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct on the Llangollen Canal, one of the wonders of the waterways. We get the facts and figures about this record-breaking aqueduct, and talk to people who've walked, boated, or kayaked across.
The Water Road is produced and presented by Adam Porter.
We're just approaching one of the wonders of the waterways.
More than 300 metres long and 39 metres high, the Pontcasilta
Aqueduct is also a World Heritage Site and that's where
we'll be exploring in this edition of the Water Rd.
So I'm here with Linda who's the manager at the visitor centre
here. So just give us the basic facts
and figures about the aqueduct then.
Yeah, so the Ponca salt, the aqueducts, so it said Ponca
saltate, so that'll be a good one for you.
It's 1007 feet long, 126 feet high.
Took 10 years to construct and they started building it in
1795, completed in 1805. I.
Mean it was quite a feat to to build the aqueduct because it's
it's a long way, as you say, but it's it's the longest one.
I suppose there was no alternative really, was there?
When they first looked into it, they were going to do a series
of locks all the way down the valley and back up again.
And they kind of realised, you know, this will probably take
three weeks just to navigate going up one, down one and back
up the other side. So that's why it took them a
little bit longer to actually figure out what's the best route
to do it. And that's why it's not maybe
closer to Llangoflan or closer maybe to Cheshire, because it
was, you know, it was across that valley that they needed to
go across. And the construction is is quite
special, isn't it, because of the way it's built with the big
columns and then the through on the top?
Yeah. So originally it was going to be
built so it actually had the stone all the way, all the way
up, the same as the similar aqueduct not far away from us at
Chirk. And then about halfway along for
building it, they stopped for a little bit and went, actually,
it's going to be too heavy. So they came up with the idea of
just having the iron through on the top of it, standing on top
of the pillars. And when you walk across, the
water actually goes underneath the towpath, doesn't it?
It does, yeah. So that's when the water
disperses. So if you had a boat just going
over and it was solid, the water would just fly over the side to
the aqueduct. On the far side, there's no
railing or anything, is there? So it's it's a bit bit scary.
Yeah, there's no railing on one side.
There was never meant to be a railing on the one side.
A lot of people ask about that because there are looks like as
if there was meant to be railings and it's just a case of
they just flipped the iron castings over and the other
side. And this is a World Heritage
site, So what does that mean for the aqueducts?
Yeah. So it's been a real Taj site
since 2009. So it means it's as as important
as the Taj Mahal, Tower of London, that type of thing,
where obviously it's not as old as some of those, but then it's
all to do with industrial heritage because.
It does hold quite a few records, doesn't it?
Yeah. So it's the the highest
navigable canal. So it's the navigable is the
important bit. And there's the highest
navigable aqueduct and it's also the longest.
It's a huge tourist attraction for CRT and I think there's
plans for more, isn't there? Yeah, so it's a, it's a really
big visitor attraction. We get over half a million
visitors a year to the site. There are plans to do some works
on sites with education space, a new footbridge, nice new walkway
to get to the team, our Country Park.
So there's a few things in the plans.
As a boater though, it's a bit of a nightmare because you can
only go One Direction at a time and people just keep coming,
don't they? It is a very busy part of the
network. It's busy for holiday boaters as
well as you know, it's also busy with canoeists, cyclists,
walkers. It's very popular.
It's a flat area, there's no locks.
So of course, I mean, it's obviously it's beautiful with
the location. We try to manage it with
volunteers and things like that on site.
It doesn't always quite happen in the summertime.
It gets to a little bit too compact.
Are the kayakers and things like that, that's a relatively new
thing, isn't it? No, we've had kayakers and
canoeing for years. It's just maybe increased since
COVID. I would say people have got out
and about, more have. You done it yourself.
I have kayaked over it. I've walked over it, kayaked it.
I've not cycled it because you're not supposed to cycle
over it and you're not paddle boarding.
So I've done, you know, all the ways you're just allowed to go
over it. I have, yeah.
And it is special. It is unique.
I still think actually the best way is just to walk over.
For me, it's that sense of like, oh, wow, we're on top of the
world and they call it, you know, the waterway across the
world and like that. So yeah, into the sky, yeah.
Because. So you did the pronunciation of
the of the Pontcasilta? Yeah.
What does it actually mean? Well, it means that the bridge
that connects, the bridge that joins, so it's joining from one
end to the end, the valley of Pontcasilta.
And with Tom and you're from TNR Outdoors and you organise the
kayaking expeditions across the aqueducts, what's the appeal?
It's big, it's high, I guess that's the appeal.
I think it's the highest navigatable aqueduct in the
world and that's got it's draw. It's in North Wales which is
lovely as well, so that's got to be it.
And it must be a pretty unique perspective.
Yeah, so looking over, you can look over the view.
So you can, as we paddle over, you've got a good view down the
Dee Valley. And then obviously paddling over
the River Dee, we've got a cracking view down of the Dee.
If you're feeling brave, you can have a little peek and you've
got like the true view of the height of it as well.
So it's pretty spectacular. And the other thing, I suppose
is that it's a bit of a free for all, isn't it?
When you start off, if there's something coming the other way,
you have to wait and then you just go for it.
Pretty much, so this time of year is not too bad.
But in a height of summer, yeah, it is quite busy.
But we've been, I mean, I've been working on this for around
20 years and there's, yeah, there's in the last couple of
years it's definitely peaked to, to, to quite a busy, busy part
of the canal. It's it's patience.
If you're in a rush, perhaps the canal is not the right place for
you. If everyone is takes their time
and just wants to enjoy it, then there's room for everyone.
But if you're if you're in a rush, you're probably going to
get a bit annoyed sometimes. Maybe.
And the trip boats are going backwards and forwards the whole
time as well, aren't they? Yeah, so we've got Anglo Welsh
and then Llangastam Wharf do a couple of trips a day.
So we obviously got on quite well with those guys because we
work alongside them and paddle, paddle next to them all the
time. So I live in the village here as
well. So this is this is my home.
So I get to get to see and get to know everyone as well so.
And you must be one of the people who's been across the
aqueduct more than most. I couldn't even count the amount
of times that I've been over there.
But no matter how many times I go over there, it's still a wow
factor. And sort of driving back into
the village every day, you still like when you come through and
this moon's behind or the sunrise, it's still, it's still
incredible. It's different, different every
day, I suppose. Different every day.
And which is the best way to go across, would you say?
Walking, Boating. Kayaking.
I definitely say from a boat you've got the better, the
better vantage, say from a canoe or a kayak or a narrow boat,
because you've got the, the view of the D Valley, you've got the
view of the, the river. Whereas when you walk, you've
got the sewage plant, which isn't quite as cool.
But most of the tourists, they don't even see that when they
come over in the canoes and the narrow boats.
So it's it's better for that I guess.
You've just done the kayak tour across the aqueduct.
What did you make of? It, yeah, it was really nice,
yeah. Some nice views, yeah.
Yeah, I really loved it. We've never done anything like
this in the UK so. So are you new to kayaking
completely then? So, well, we we was canoeing
this one, but we've kayaked before.
This was first time canoeing, tough steering the boat, Yeah.
Definitely. Yeah, you've got a nice Longview
of of, you know, the stream and stuff below.
So yeah, that was really nice. Did you come into contact with
any boats? Yeah.
Well, contacted in sea and then we didn't crash into any, which
was good. Yeah, well.
When you're on the aqueduct, the views are amazing.
On my right hand side I've got the towpath with a railing and
then there's views down the valley with the Kevin Moore
Railway viaduct off in the distance.
On the other side there's just 4 inches or so of the iron plates
that make up the through that the aqueduct is made of.
And beyond that you've got views of the Welsh Hills.
And about 2/3 of the way across you cross over the River Dee.
And because there was a lot of rain last night and yesterday,
the water is really rushing by down below and it's gone from
the normal colour to a sort of muddy brown colour because of
all the runoff from the Welsh hills you've all just walked
over. What did you think of it?
What's the best bit? We were looking over the side,
weren't we? In the river was going really.
What's it doing fast? And we talked to the kayakers
going over, didn't we? And they said it was really
cold. The water was so not to jump in,
didn't they? Yeah.
So that was good, wasn't it? Yeah.
What did you think, Reese? Did you enjoy it?
It was quite fun, but also a bit nerve wracking.
And would you walk over it again?
Well, you've got to, haven't you, to get that, so you're not
that frightened. No second time is better than
the first. Because.
You know what it's like then? Right.
So Emma, star of Narrow Escapes, you've been on the podcast
before talking about your book. That episode's still available
now. We've both been here a couple of
days and I've noticed that you've been across the
aqueducts, what, half a dozen? Times never want to milk it.
I'll be dramatic whatsoever and I've met I'd like to finish the
season by coming on this beautiful canal.
I find it beguiling, but so do all my friends as well.
So I've ended up being a kind of personal trip boat for for my
friends and everything. But we were laughing today
because I haven't got any crew on board but I just fancy doing
the recycling so so I went across just to just to get rid
of my cider bottles. Basically any old excuse for me.
I mean, it is a spectacular monument though, isn't it?
It is absolutely, it's overwhelming actually.
And also, if you take the time to go and walk underneath it,
you get the sense of the, the tremendous structure and, and,
and the manpower it's taken to build it.
And it's very overwhelming, to be honest with you.
And the fact that you can hear the, the, the boats go over the
top and you can hear them banging into the side of the
tank and you think, you know, it looks, it looks even more scary
from underneath than it does from above.
Yes. It does, actually, because it's
tall, isn't. It, yes, really.
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Well, inspired by what Emma
said, I've come to the traverse side of the aqueduct where
there's a path and some steps down to the River Dee, and on
the way you can stand right next to the huge stone pillars that
hold up the Pontiac Aqueduct. It really is quite awe inspiring
to see how tall they are and how that iron through just spans the
gaps in between them. And that's all from the World
Heritage Site that includes the Ponticus to Aqueduct.
The Water Rd is produced and presented by me, Adam Porter.
Don't forget that all previous episodes of the podcast are
always available to listen to. Next time we'll be at the end of
the Llangorrel Canal in Llangorrelan itself.
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